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MV 750SS-F4 REPLICA

FRAME PROGRESS

BODY WORK
 
 
 

 

We are located in sunny WHITE ROCK, BC, CANADA

Contact Jim Bush by email

Phone 604-535-5800


 

 

project file: MV AGUSTA 1970's CLASSIC RACE REPLICA with a modern 2004 MV 750cc F4 engine

BODYWORK: My Blog is in reverse date order - older posts are below, starting Dec 27, 2011

March 18, 2012 Painting is done in house. I have a dedicated paint room with extra heat, lots of light and a filtered exhaust fan. I take proper precautions with paint due to the nasty stuff it is made of. I wear a full body suit, nitrile gloves, and an air supplied face mask (always blowing air out, positive pressure, no nasties get it). Since the red on the frame has turned out spectacular, I will use the same Endura paint on the body work. I usually use full House of Kolor system, but in this case I will use the usual HOK Epoxy primers, HOK Urethane Ko-Sealer, then the Endura, topped over with HOK Urethane Clear. The HOK clear has proved exceptional and can by buffed and polished to perfection. The Endura can be colour sanded and buffed/polished but being so hard it is a bit of an effort and any sanding scratches from 1000 grit show up - have to use 1500/2000 only to deal with any blemishes. The black is Endura low gloss and it looks great.

painter tankpaint1

March 6, 2012

FInal sidecovers are complete. The 2 side cover molds (on left) were made from the wooden "plug". I filled and sanded defects and blemishes before final glassing of the actual cover from the mold. The actual side cover on the right shows the machined mounting pins glassed in - these align with holes in the frame that have a rubber grommet. The bottom is a direct screw mount to the frame so the cover won't blow off.

cover4 sidecover3

JANUARY 31, 2012

Making the "plug" molds for the side covers. I am using MDF (wood), primer and filler - what a messy business. My son was horrified to see me making wooden parts for the bike! After about 4 or 5 modifications, I have settled on the final design. Mocked up the injectors with a velocity stack to get the general idea. After one more coat of primer and urethane clear, these will be ready for the fibregalss mold making. My experiences with making the seat pans has been sucessful - I made two upholstery bases, just seems a time consuming process that can't be rushed.

sidecover1

JANUARY 28, 2012

Fiberglass work on the upholstery seat pan is going well. I prep'd, waxed, polished and laid release agent over the primed and sanded seat base. I TIG welded 6mm SS nuts to some SS fender washers for attachment to the seat base. A thick GEL coast was applied and let dry for 6 hours, then the glass fibre was laid up. It will be a few days before I can split the new seat base. Wood work and shaping of the the side covers mold plug is starting next Fiberglass work is very time consuming and messy, I want to get it over and done with pretty quick. and move on to making the foam seat base and sewing the cover.

gel seat2 seat6

JANUARY 23, 2012

Work on the tail piece is going well. I had to add the seat pan to the "Phat Tail" piece (ebay purchase). I made a sheetmetal template of the seat pan, waxed it, polished and laid the glass over it. Once dry I added the pan to the hump and glassed it all in. Shaping and fitting to the frame meant I could now take a look at the overall concept with tank and side cover. The cardboard sidecover infill shows what I have in mind - it follows the MAGNI idea, with curved edge and bulge for the velocity stacks. Since I am now sort of familiar with the procedures of working with fiberglass (this was my first time), I plan on making sidecovers out of fiberglass, with a the mold out of MDF. The complex shape of the cover would mean that sheetmetal fabrication would be quite difficult and time consuming.

My plans for seat portion; the upholstery pan will be flat, with a slight turned edge, a uniform thickness of 1 1/2" of foam and a gel pad. I will use BLACK upholstery fabric and keep it low profile and uniform, contrasting to the seat base & tail piece in red.

concept1

Work on the tank is almost done. Mounting is finalized with the grommet and SS bolt system. Body filler and shaping is going well.

mount2 tank9

JANUARY 18, 2012

The gas tank has proved to be quite challenging and time consuming. I gave myself 2 weeks to "get her done" and looks like I just made it. Welding in the bottom panel was quite straight forward for the most part. The challenge came with the front, where the side and bottom come together as 2 edge panels. Maurice the expert TIG welder was able join the two edges successfully. After grinding I was able to backfill with new weld to reinforce and maintain the shape. The mounting ears was the next big issue. After a number of "fails" with templates of several materials, I was able to get two to fit. Sourcing a suitable rubber mount bushing from ebay meant I was able to size and locate the mounting hole. I am using a 1" grommet with a 1/2 bore, a stainless spacer/crush tube and a 10M mounting bolt with stainless flange washer - all proper. The tank will be sealed on the inside with CASWELL Epoxy tank sealer for added security and piece of mind. Priming and body filler is next.

tank7 TANK7

fail mount1

FAILS! The making of a tank mount......

JANUARY 11, 2012 Working on fabricating the bottom panel of the tank. This includes a 5" dia mounting flange for the fuel pump unit. I am using the stock Brutale fuel pump and it comes all plumbed and wired to use. The flange was machined and is a very tight fit to the pump and the special o-ring. The tank panels are now fitted and done - had to do it in 2 pieces. There was a full day of hand work with dollies and hammers to fit the front opening and clear the frame. I have since added a recess near the neck to clear the water overflow bottle. Welding is next.

flange1 flange2

 

 

JANUARY 9, 2012

Front piece fabricated the old school way by beating the metal on an anvil, and now welded in position. Needs some dollie work. I have now moved on to fabricating the new tank bottom and machining the weld in flange for the fuel pump.

tank4 tank5 tank6

 

JANUARY 5, 2012

Serious work now underway on the gas tank. I am rebuilding the front to match the frame mounting. After sandblasting to remove the paint, we uncovered a bad brazed repair on the top, this has been cut back so the new sheetmetal welding is to original metal. Cardboard template shows the extent of the rebuild. Once the front is done, I will start on the new bottom panel with the fuel pump mounting. The front profile had to be modified and extended to clear the forks.

tank1 tank2

DECEMBER 27, 2011

FAIRING, HEADLIGHT & FORKS are mounted. It has been a struggle to get things to fit and yet manage to retain some rideability. I plan to spend some time in the saddle of this bike so my priority is making it less of a race bike with a more comfortable riding position. During the mock up (yes, I got to climb aboard), the biggest challenge became the handlebar clearances - Using stock Triumph barset the reach was too far and too angled. A set of custom silver finish adjustable clip on's from APEX did the trick. Still might have to trim the fairing once the steering stops are installed.

fairing 1 cockpit5

Decision around modern or period external electrics was finally resolved - I am using period CEV large indicators, a period APRILIA headlight shell and glass (really cool find that one), a CEV tail light. All other electrical components are stock F4 MV Agusta.

front1

The radiator and oil cooler are hidden nicely in the fairing recesses.

...headlight1

Headlight bracket, before I trimmed the top triple tree to remove the ignition key retainer. The original MAGNI fairing front support was used - the mounting boss welded to the headstock and the support bracket modified to add the headlight fairing support.

 

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